RF1 12V Assembly Guide v1.4
This is for the current version of the RF1_12V. For build instructions of previous versions of the RF1_12V see: RF1_12V Assembly Guide * 1.3 and earlier
Before starting, make sure you have all the parts available from the BOM. Note that there are two voltage regulators in the BOM that may look alike and can be confused; please take care to install the correct regulator in the correct spot. Also, there are as many as four ceramic capacitors — three .1uF (one optional) and one .33uF — and they may look exactly alike except for the markings; don't mix them up.Step 1:
- Note: The capacitor in position C7 is optional but recommended. For BOMs shipped in 2015 this is a blue capacitor. For older BOMs a .1uF is supplied but may be insufficient.
- Note: The BOM distributed by Komby for the RF1_12v does not use polarized capacitors for either of the next two components. If you are using your own capacitors, the polarity has been indicated on the PCB.
Solder the .33uF and .1uF capacitors for the 3.3v regulator (the .33uF component is yellow in this picture and the .1uF component is marked 104). Also: The .33uF capacitor distributed with the BOM has legs that need to be bent inward near the component so they will fit in the board's holes.
- Note: The 5v and 3.3v regulators on this board are not pin compatible (or interchangeable).
- Note: The notch on the DIP socket is pointed toward the resistor.
Step 10 (optional):
- Depending on your choice at time of purchase, your BOM may include a male (straight or right-angle) or female 2.54 pitch header, or nothing. Before soldering the header you should determine if you would prefer your controller boards to have female or male headers. The BOM which comes with your kit will default to female headers.
Step 11 (optional):
- Solder the double pins for the 12v out. This is used as a pin to connect to expansion boards such as the DumbRGB Controller.
Step 12 (optional):
- Note: Instead of using a four-pin header you should probably use one of these Four-pin waterproof connectors!
- Solder the two 10uF capacitors for the 5v regulator (MCP1702). Note the polarity of the capacitors (the positive leg is the longer of the two and goes into the hole marked with the + sign).
Step 14 (optional):
- Solder the power connector. Note: The board is designed for a center-positive DC jack or a two-wire screw terminal (which will fit in the DC-jack footprint and the small hole on the negative side). Or solder wires directly to the board.
- Verify your power regulators are working before installing the ATMega or the nRF24L01.
- Plug a DC source of 12v power in the DC jack.
- Verify that the ATMega (Pin 7) is receiving 5v.
- Verify that the radio header (Pin 2) is getting 3.3v.
If all checked out OK in Step 15, place an ATMega328P-PU that has the Arduino bootloader installed and the nRF24L01 transceiver in their sockets.
Step 17: Load some code and blink!