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RF1 12V Assembly Guide v1.4

This is for the current version of the RF1_12V. For build instructions of previous versions of the RF1_12V see: RF1_12V Assembly Guide * 1.3 and earlier

Before starting, make sure you have all the parts available from the BOM.
Note that there are two voltage regulators in the BOM that may look alike and can be confused;
please take care to install the correct regulator in the correct spot.
Also, there are as many as four ceramic capacitors — three .1uF (one optional) and one .33uF —
and they may look exactly alike except for the markings; don't mix them up.
Step 1:
Gather all the elements of the BOM.

Step 2:

Solder the 10K pull up resistor for the reset circuit.

Step 3:

Solder the 16MHz ceramic resonator; it has no polarity, so can be installed either way. Color of the resonator may vary.
Optional Step 3a: If you prefer to substitute a 16MHz crystal for the resonator in your circuit, solder it here but be certain to also solder two .22pf SMD capacitors to the underside of the board, where C5 and C6 are indicated.

Step 4:

  • Note: The capacitor in position C7 is optional but recommended. For BOMs shipped in 2015 this is a blue capacitor. For older BOMs a .1uF is supplied but may be insufficient.

Solder two capacitors to positions C7(10uF) and C8 (.1uF); the .1uF capacitors are marked 104, the 10uF is blue and both are not polarized, so can be installed either way.

Step 5:

  • Note: The BOM distributed by Komby for the RF1_12v does not use polarized capacitors for either of the next two components. If you are using your own capacitors, the polarity has been indicated on the PCB.

Solder the .33uF and .1uF capacitors for the 3.3v regulator (the .33uF component is yellow in this picture and the .1uF component is marked 104). Also: The .33uF capacitor distributed with the BOM has legs that need to be bent inward near the component so they will fit in the board's holes.

Solder the .33uF capacitor into position C1 and .1uF capacitor into position C2.

Step 6:

  • Note: The 5v and 3.3v regulators on this board are not pin compatible (or interchangeable).

Solder the 3.3v regulator (L78L33ACZ) into position IC1.

Step 7:

Solder the 5v regulator (MCP1702) into position IC2.

Step 8:

  • Note: The notch on the DIP socket is pointed toward the resistor.

Add the 28-pin DIP socket.

Step 9:

Solder the 2x4 header for the RF.

Step 10 (optional):

  • Depending on your choice at time of purchase, your BOM may include a male (straight or right-angle) or female 2.54 pitch header, or nothing. Before soldering the header you should determine if you would prefer your controller boards to have female or male headers. The BOM which comes with your kit will default to female headers.

Step 10 male header option : Solder the 15-pin header. Male headers pictured
Alternate step 10 Female header option: Solder the 15-pin & 2-pin header combined. Female right angle headers pictured. Two pins have been removed from the header to allow it to solder in one piece. You can also solder the 15-pin and 2-pin female headers separately. Note.Note this picture is from a different build of a RF1_12V than the rest of this guide.

Step 11 (optional):

  • Solder the double pins for the 12v out. This is used as a pin to connect to expansion boards such as the DumbRGB Controller.

The double pins for the 12v out.

Step 12 (optional):

Solder the four-pin header for the pixel string.

Step 13:

  • Solder the two 10uF capacitors for the 5v regulator (MCP1702). Note the polarity of the capacitors (the positive leg is the longer of the two and goes into the hole marked with the + sign).

Solder the two 10uF capacitors into positions C3 and C4.

Step 14 (optional):

  • Solder the power connector. Note: The board is designed for a center-positive DC jack or a two-wire screw terminal (which will fit in the DC-jack footprint and the small hole on the negative side). Or solder wires directly to the board.

Solder the power connector (two-wire screw terminal shown here).

Step 15:

  • Verify your power regulators are working before installing the ATMega or the nRF24L01.
    • Plug a DC source of 12v power in the DC jack.
    • Verify that the ATMega (Pin 7) is receiving 5v.
    • Verify that the radio header (Pin 2) is getting 3.3v.

Verify power before installing nRF24L201.
Verify power before installing ATMega.

Step 16:

If all checked out OK in Step 15, place an ATMega328P-PU that has the Arduino bootloader installed and the nRF24L01 transceiver in their sockets.

Install the ATMega and the nRF.

Step 17: Load some code and blink!